#foaming at the mouth like a sophisticated gentleman

[thegreateventof1928]

YESSSS YES I DID IT IVE DONE IT WOOOOOO BLUE TEETH!! DID YOUR WIRELESS HEADSET STOP WORKING? THAT WAS ME- I STOLE THE BLUE TOOTH- NOW I HAVE ALL THE BLUE TEETH ALL OF THEM

[lucas-reading-list]

The mysteries of shaving

Source: http://www.stilemaschile.it/2015/11/25/i-misteri-della-rasatura/

Every adult man has an almost indistinct daily appointment. As soon as he wakes up, having performed the most elementary physiological functions, he faces the mirror and the need to take care of his beard. This can mean keeping it long (do not give up, even in this case, adjusting and smoothing out the contours and smoothing it with the special brush) or, in most cases, completely remove it by shaving it.

This second option, to which I dedicate the following lines, can be faced at home or at a barberia, one of the places that, like tailoring, the gentleman feels closer and more sacred. Barberia is still one of the few rigorously and exclusively male institutions, one of the richest in history, and is still a place to meet, a lovable (perhaps banal but always relaxing) conversation, if not even tasty, spicy or secretive gossip. tradition.

A stroll in London's St. James district, a true paradise for lovers of traditional men's clothing, can not be said to be satisfactorily ended without a stop at the old shops of Taylor of Old Bond Street, at no. 74 of Jermyn Street, of "Geo Trumper" at no. 9 of Curzon Street, of "Truefitt & Hill" at no. 71 of St. James Street, for a haircut, a shaving of the rule of art or, at least, a full supply of products for male toilets among the finest and most prestigious.

Without necessarily having to go to London (which is quite difficult to do every morning ...) every city or country in Italy is still able to offer a discreet choice of handicraft shops where the gentleman can indulge in the pleasure of true shaving. In these places (which keep the red and blue rotating spiral in memory of ancient surgical activities - such as the burning - which was once practiced), the skin of the face, previously softened with warm wipes, is carefully soaked with a rate brush and, later, depilated with a very shaving razor. After shaving, the skin is refreshed with a careful and vigorous massage based on soothing or after-care balm that is more or less alcoholic.

The rhythms imposed on modern humans, especially in big cities, do not make the barber's daily rest easy. In addition, the number of men who stand alone is literally exploded since King Camp Gillette (1855-1932) patented in 1895 the "disposable" knife, sharpened on both sides.

A few years earlier, around 1880, the "free-hand" razor had blamed a hard hit, after centuries of absolute domination, with the invention of the so-called "Star Security Razor", patented by Otto and Frederick Kampfe brothers and based on the use of a sharp blade only on one side and encased in a metal guard that allowed only a few millimeters of blade to leak, reducing the danger of deep cuts.

The rise of the safety razor relegated the free-bladed folding razor within the shaving museums and a narrow circle of cultures, maintaining only the characteristics of a terrible torture instrument, exalted in some of the most disturbing scenes of history of cinema: in a surrealist masterpiece by Luis Buñuel and Salvador Dalì A chien andalou (1929), a man, having passed a razor on the carpenter (leather strip to sharpen the blade), approaches a woman, eye, wide open in front of a full moon, in turn "scratched" by a thin cloud also like a blade; in the pruriginal moonlight by Roman Polanski (1992), a pernicious and fatal Emmanuelle Seigner literally scoffs at shavings, the paraplegic, a frightened but still excited partner.

There is no doubt that the ingenious invention of the blade uses and throws, by Gillette, has led to a real revolution in the habits of men around the world, giving a great impetus to the spread of domestic shaving.

The latter can also be a source of pleasure. What matters is, in fact, the mental attitude of the style man, who leaves nothing to chance, not even the most banal of everyday occupations. He therefore will have the time of shaving not as a dull bother, but as a time of voluptuous and satisfying relaxation .

Homemade shaving can be made with the use of foam, water and blade ("wet" shaving), ie with electric razor ("dry" or "dry" shaving). The foam is used to keep the water in contact with the skin, to inflame it to let the hair out and soften it, so that the blade passes more effectively. The electric razor is exactly the opposite: the skin is kept dry to allow the blades to cut better and deeper.

The electric razor, invented by Colonel Jacob Schick (1878-1937) in 1931 and subsequently refined and disseminated by the Dutch house Philips, is a tool based on the action of small rotary knives acting in unison very quickly. Dry shaving is rather quick, as it does not require water or emollient products, but only requires an electrical outlet (or battery) and only requires the cleansing of the razor of the removed hairs every time that you use it. For these reasons, it is generally preferred by those who, living in the cult of practicality and comfort, tend to squeeze the time to spend on the daily toilet.

Handwash "wet" instead, replicates in the house what happens to the barber. The basic steps are as follows: you start with a series of emollient practices that tend to soften the hairs and lubricate the skin to prepare it for the blade; it continues with the removal of the hairs, slipping the blade on the skin; comes to an end with a thorough disinfection of after-care products and lotions.

Of course, these steps must be fully mastered and can be made more effective, as well as more enjoyable, with a number of options that will allow you to achieve a perfect shave.

We start from the first, that is, by the facial emollient treatment before the razor passage. To prepare the skin for shaving requires hydration and heat. It may be useful to wet a towel (preferably linen) with very hot water and keep it resting on your face for a few minutes. A more practical and quick remedy can be represented by shaving immediately after having a shower or a hot bath, thereby benefiting the effect that heat will have exerted throughout the body. The renowned London perfumery also offers the gentleman a remarkable variety of oils, lotions and plant-based gel, useful in producing a skin-emollient effect, or removing impurities, excess of sebum, dead cells, promoting smoothness of the razor.

Shaving starts with the application of shaving foam on the face skin. Practical lovers can opt for any of the foams or gels marketed in spray cans, to sprinkle on the hands and then pass on the skin. The other option, to which my unconditional preference goes, is that based on the use of soap or shaving cream to apply with the rate brush. In this case, the brush must be moistened with hot water, transferred to the soap and then into a bowl of metal, wood or porcelain, in order to create a soft and volatile foam that will gently pass through the skin of the face, following the inclination of the hair (in the case of the cream, it will place a small amount on the brush with hot water, which will then go directly to the face). In her beautiful volume The gentleman, Bernhard Roetzel writes that the difference between the spray shaving foam and that of a good shaving soap is "big at least as much as that between the canned cream and the fresh one to mount."

After bathing the bladder with hot water, it begins to shave the face, sliding the razor on the skin in the direction of hair growth. These do not grow evenly on the face: it is therefore appropriate to change the direction of the razor, as the blade caresses the cheeks, chin, space between nose and mouth and throat, following curvature and roundness. It will also be advisable for the blade to glide on the skin gently, depending on the inclination that everyone will study as appropriate for their face, and that it is frequently rinsed under the current hot water.

It will also be useful to have a magnifying mirror during shaving. This type of mirror generally has a normal lens on one side and a magnifying glass on the other, which is conducive to a more accurate view of the facial details.

With regard to blades, technology has made enormous advances over the last few years, offering increasingly sophisticated and effective shaving products. In this area, the most significant novelty is represented by multilame razors which, with the presence of a variable number of blades (three to five) located on the close-fitting head, can remove the hair deep with only one passage, greatly reducing the risk of irritation and cuts. Lubricants and disinfectants on the head make it easier to slide the blades, avoiding excessive shaving of the razor on the skin. Some of these razors also feature battery operated systems that can reduce the razor friction on the skin (thanks to micro-pulsations) or to direct the hairs in the direction of shaving,

The first and essential passage of the blade according to the direction of the hairs may eventually follow a second abundant soap and a new shave, this time in the opposite direction to that of hair growth (cd "shave" shaving). This second shave, leaving your face completely smooth and smooth, is only advisable if your skin is in a condition to withstand inevitable stress. In many cases, in fact, shake it counter, perhaps in a hurry and without due attention, it can cause hairs under skin or annoying irritation. These disadvantages are more common when the beard is more prickly and curly.

At the end of this second step, it will be necessary to rinse the face with cold water, which is useful for toning the skin, closing the pores and attenuating any possible irritation.

Even after using all the attention and precaution, it can not rule out the risk of some slight cut or irritation, which often occurs in the form of tiny bleeding brufolites. In these cases, physical discomfort also adds to the aesthetic discomfort when, by closing the shirt to knit the tie, a series of small red spots on the collar makes it completely useless.

If shaving has caused some minor bleeding, it is advisable, after rinsing with cold water, to pass on a razor-sharp rock stone all over the surface, and its disinfectant action will further soothe the irritation. The Rock Algae - or Potassium Alumina - is a translucent white crystal, usually found in cylindrical sticks or in the form of rectangular ribs, endowed with antibacterial, astringent and hemostatic properties. These properties favor blood clotting, reducing the flow, and hindering the formation of pimples or infections in the case of micro-skin lesions. The stick or crystal blade will go over the face with cold water and let it act for a few seconds.

The most insistent and insidious blood spills (which should not, however, occur if the beard is made in accordance with the skin's own characteristics) can be treated with appropriate hemostatic products such as blood vessels or stickers 'they are easily available in perfumeries.

At this point, the face will be ready for a generous aspiration with the favorite lotion or bald eyeshadow, whose more or less alcoholic composition will depend on the intensity of a virile, invigorating but still enjoyable burning.

I just have to give some indication of the best brands in the field of shaving products and tools. In this regard, and relying exclusively on my personal experience, I can only recall the already mentioned famous British barber shops (" Taylor of Old Bond Street ", "Geo Trumper", " Truefitt & Hill ", to which the multi-century pharmacy"DR Harris", al n. 29 of St. James Street), which also offer, via the internet, product lines that still represent the absolute excellence of shaving. While remaining in London, I can not forget other prestigious perfumery brands, such as Floris and Penhaligon's, which have always included in their catalog refined shaving products. I like to quote the words of one of the greatest perfumery experts, Silvio Levi, about the English attitude towards men's toilets: "perhaps as a legacy of Protestant perbenism, the British love to smell more with the After shave than with the Toilet water; Perfume is acceptable, but it must be matched with the virile act of shave. On the other hand, it is precisely from shaving products that people often approach the fragrance world. From almond or lime shaving soaps , go to lavender or verbena, then get to the thickest sandal or the most delicious rose. So, in this path you approach to After shave that are getting more and more perfumes. "

Lastly, some handicrafts (German "Dovo", French "Plisson" and "Kent") are still mentioned, using noble materials, such as razors, brushes, supports, bowls, mirrors, etc.

The most appropriate products, the most sophisticated and sumptuous tools, can make shaving a real daily pleasure. An intimate, innocent pleasure, all in all negligible. But I wonder if it really is worth neglecting it, as it can give man one of the best ways to start his day.